Sunday, July 31, 2011
Wien - Part 2
We visited Vienna’s amusement park Prater because the box-car ferris wheel, the Wiener Riesenrad, was recommended and recently featured on an Amazing Race episode. This amusement park is great because they don’t charge you an entrance fee and you just pay for the rides you want to go on at the actual ride; you don’t have to buy a bunch of ride tickets. The park has a large number of rides, games to try and win prizes and of course plenty of places to eat. When we got there we found a new ride, opened just over a year ago, that we thought would be much more fun and give us a better view of the city. So instead we opted for the 117 metre high Praterturm, the world’s highest chairoplane ride. This ride cost $5 Euro each and was worth every cent. The first time we went on the ride, the weather forecast was predicting rain and sure enough just as we got to the top we felt a rain drop, then another, then a few more and suddenly the sky opened up with gigantic raindrops (I’ve never seen raindrops this large before, they were like raindrops on steroids) and we were stuck at the top of the ride getting soaked. This rain shower didn’t stop for some time and we ended up getting soaked through to the skin by the time we reached the U station so we could head back to the hotel to dry off and change. Thankfully I wasn't the one wearing a white shirt that day.
On that one rainy day, the rain let up a little but stuck around until well in the evening. After drying off and changing into dry clothes and sandals because our shoes were also soaked through, we set off to ride the tram which took us to the museum quarter. Here we walked around looking at the fabulous architecture and reading about some of the history of the buildings in our guide. We decided to go to one museum and were glad we did. We had seen and heard a lot about this woman called Sisi and so we ended up at the Hofburg Imperial Apartments, Sisi Museum. This museum gives an inside look to the life of the Empress Elisabeth “Sisi”, who didn’t enjoy her public life in the least and was obsessed with her looks. The Austrians still carry a love for the former Empress and you see her picture adorned on a lot of tourist merchandise. We found out the Empress loved ice cream just as much as we do. This museum houses an impressive Imperial Silver collection which really showcases the pomp and circumstance of monarchies and dignitaries. The museum was interesting and also gave us an opportunity to get out of the rain for awhile.
Vienna is rich in culture and is known as the birthplace of opera and the waltz. Everywhere you look there are posters advertising classical concerts. We went to see a performance by the Vienna Royal Orchestra who performed a compilation of pieces mostly by Mozart and Strauss. We managed to get tickets for $29 Euro each. The concert took place in a neo-Gothic Imperial Hall which had a very impressive architectural interior. There was a 10-piece orchestra and they were accompanied at times by two Viennese opera singers and ballet dancers. We were also treated to a performance by a Mexican Youth Choir who was in attendance that evening. Overall we were quite impressed with the concert and felt we got great value for the price.
The entire time we were in Austria, Z wanted to try a Sacher torte. This dessert originated in Vienna, so what better place than Vienna for him to try it. Even better we found Cafe Sacher, the home of the original sacher torte. This torte is basically a two layer chocolate cake with apricot jam filling in the middle and is served with a side of whipping cream. Z enjoyed his torte immensely while I ate a slightly overpriced, but well worth it fresh fruit salad. This salad was so fresh I had to wait about five minutes before it arrived.
The Naschmarkt is a place worth visiting. Here you find blocks of vendors selling everything from fresh produce, fruit, meats, cheeses, spices, teas to souvenirs. There were plenty of places to order food from and several restaurants lined the outside rows. A lot of the vendors were of Middle Eastern descent and a lot of the foods had a Mediterranean flavour to them. You could sample an endless supply of olives, and stuffed tomatoes.
The Rathus, city hall, is a very impressive structure as well. The Vienna Film Festival was taking place during our stay and there was a colossal screen set up in front of the building with chairs set up for people to view the free nightly movie. The plaza out front was lined with a large assortment of international food vendors. And in Viennese style, the meals are served on real plates and drinks served in real glasses. It was definitely a well run and classy event. There are tables in the plaza area to sit, or stand, and enjoy your food and/or drink. We enjoyed a sample of Greek food and I must say it was the best tasting chicken slouvaki I’ve ever had. We also tried an Austrian Ottakringer beer. We had the Radler, which is a mixture of 50% beer and 50% lemonade. It was refreshing, but the taste was a little unusual; not bad, just not something we’re accustomed to.
Austria is also known for its wines and what better way to end our stay than a trip out to a Heuriger (wine taverns). We read about these in our guide and thought it would be fun to experience. We took the tram towards the outskirts of Vienna to an area called Nussdorf. From there we walked a couple blocks before we started to see the wreaths which indentify a Hueriger. We stopped in at Schubel Auer Heuriger, a 300-year old family run winery. As you enter through the gate you walk up a cobblestone path to the wine garden which had picnic tables and chairs, umbrellas and trees; there is also indoor seating, but we chose to sit outside. It’s like being in someone’s back yard. It was quite busy when we arrived and we didn’t have a reservation, but we found an empty table and shared a wonderful ½ litre of red wine. These wine taverns generally offer new brews which are made on site, so we’re not exactly sure of the name of the wine we had, but it tasted great nonetheless. What a wonderful way to end our stay in Vienna.
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Wien - Part 1
Vienna is definitely a big city and you get that sense right when you arrive. Thankfully the city has a great transit system that gets you wherever you want to go with relative ease. The U-Bahn is fabulous; the stations are clean and bright; the trains run on time and are quite modern. The stations are also all well signed. My favourite line was U2. We bought a 72-hour transit pass, for about $14 Euro each, which allowed unlimited travel on the U-Bahn lines, buses and trams. Vienna’s transit system goes on the honour system, but if you get caught without a valid ticket, it’s a $70 Euro on the spot fine.
We felt safe walking around the city and in the underground and while it’s always important to be mindful of your surroundings, we never in the least bit felt we had to be overly cautious. Even a taxi driver, who immigrated from the Philippines 20 years ago, said he moved here because he felt it is the safest city in Europe. The city is generally pretty clean as well. There are plenty of public toilets around the city, including in the U stations, which are clean and stocked with required supplies; some required payment of 50 cent Euro while others were free. It’s definitely a different culture here with what I would describe as more respectful values in place. You were promptly greeted when entering a store and service in general was just better. We also noticed that alcohol can be consumed openly on the streets and you didn’t see a bunch of people walking around drunk. It’s quite the contrast from home.
We stayed at Hotel Imlauer, which is a contemporary, modern hotel. It’s located a short train ride from the central Vienna core and the U station was about two blocks away. The hotel even gave us a nice welcome note and small gift for our honeymoon. It was a great hotel for the end of our European tour.
Again, we chose not to visit many museums because of limited time and we wanted to see the city, not artifacts and artwork. We took the train to Schloss Schonbrunn, the former summer house of the Imperial family. When we arrived there were children’s choirs from several Asian countries performing in front of the palace. They were there for the World Peace Choral Festival. The surrounding gardens were immaculately sculptured. There are Roman ruins and sculptures all around the grounds. The grounds appear to be a popular running spot for locals. You get some really good city views when you walk to the end of the gardens where you find the Gloriette structure.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral is an impressive, gothic church built in the 1100’s. This gigantic church was undergoing some restoration, but the “wrapping” was a picture of the part of the church it was covering, so you really did get to see the whole building. Inside the church was beautiful with dramatic high ceilings and lovely artwork.
We walked along the main pedestrian street in the core of the city. This street was filled with buskers performing their various talents. This street had plenty of shops where you could spend all your money or restaurants and cafes in case you were hungry. One thing about Vienna, you’ll never go hungry in this city. You could even get take away seafood chain called Nordsee, but Z said his box of shrimp wasn’t that good.
We had a lot of other great tasting food, including a meal at a restaurant called 3 Hacken Magazin. We read about this place on another traveller’s blog who raved about the traditional Austrian food. So we tried it out and agreed that the food was great as well as the ambience. We arrived just before the evening dinner crowd, so we managed to get a table without a reservation, but apparently it is recommended to make a reservation for this place.
On the recommendation of a friend, we went to an ice cream store called Tischy. Now, had we not gone to Italy before Vienna, I’d definitely say this was the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted. It’s a very close second in my books. The ice cream is rich in flavour which just explodes in your mouth. I had hazelnut and vanilla one time and hazelnut and strawberry another. The strawberry tasted like I was eating real strawberries and the hazelnut was to die for. I could have lived on this if I was allowed. Z will attest to that and I think he could have too. The flavours he had were absolutely fabulous as well.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
The Romantic Road to Vienna
That's not me making up the title, there is actually a route called the Romantic Road which takes you from Salzburg to Vienna through many beautiful and quaint villages and towns.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Salzburg
From Venice we took a bus to Villach, Austria and then hopped on a train to Salzburg. Total travel time was about 5 hours and we passed some very beautiful scenery along the way. Entering Austria we caught great views of the Alps and small villages on the hillside. We’ve entered Mozart and “The Sound of Music” territory.
We stayed the Mercure Salzburg Kapuzinerberg. This hotel was conveniently located about a 15 minute walk from the Old Town of Salzburg. We were given one of the recently renovated new rooms. The hotel again was quite nice with the room being very spacious. The carpet had a musical design in it and was quite fitting. Breakfast was included and was absolutely great with a large selection of food. They also offered the option to have breakfast delivered to your room, which we did the morning we were leaving.
We determined rather quickly that Salzburg is not a late night city and didn’t find much open after 6pm. We walked along the Salzach River on our way to the Augustiner. The Augustiner was founded in 1621. It’s a beer hall with several different sitting rooms, most were non-smoking. You can also buy food from different vendors in the hallways. Your beer is served from a wooden barrel into a stone mug and you go to one of the rooms, sit on wooden benches, drink beer and socialize with those around you. There were mostly locals present when we arrived on a Friday night and we just sat at one of their tables. Children were also present with their parents.
The next day we walked around Salzburg in the rain. We walked through Mirabellgarten, which was built by archbishop prince Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau for his mistress in 1606. These gardens and its palace are a popular wedding venue and in fact we saw three separate brides while we were there. Some scenes from The Sound of Music were also filmed here.
Along the Salzach River, we found an artisans’ market where you could buy homemade items such as tablecloths, handbags, jewellery, knickknacks, and many other things.
We made our way through the Old Town, stopping at Mozart Plaza and the Salzburg Dom Cathedral. Unfortunately the cathedral was closed because they were setting up for an outdoor concert the next day. We didn’t know this before we arrived in Salzburg, but Austria’s most renowned classical music festival takes place from late July to end of August. We have scheduled our trip a little differently to take in some of the concerts had we known this.
The Hohensalzburg Fortress provides incredible panoramic views of Salzburg. This fortress and castle is situated right in the city atop Festungsberg Mountain. Construction on the fortress began in 1077 and it has quite the rich history to it. We opted to take the funicular up and down because of the rain. Once inside, you can take an audio walking tour, included in the ticket price, which takes you through a few wings of the castle and provides you with descriptions of the various rooms and what they were used for. It was rather informing and worth doing. The rest of the fortress is open for exploring on your own.
With Austria being the home of the famous Von Trapp family and The Sound of Music, we couldn’t help but end our stay in Salzburg with The Sound of Salzburg dinner show. This show was great and included a selection of songs from The Sound of Music as well as Austrian folk songs. It was a great way to finish off our stay here.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
A little more of Cinque Terre with pictures
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Venezia
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Monday, July 18, 2011
Sestri Lavante & Cinque Terre
From Milan we took a train two and a half hours southwest and stopped in a quaint town called Sestri Lavante. This coastal town is situated on the Liguria Riviera. We stayed at Hotel Helvetia which is about a 10 minute walk from the train station. This hotel is seaside and Z booked us a fabulous seaside room with a balcony overlooking the bay. What he didn't know before booking this room was that the sound of the surf crashing on the shoreline is my top favourite sound. We stayed three nights here and each morning got to enjoy a wonderful breakfast spread on the outside patio. It doesn't get better than that. We enjoyed some lounging time on the outdoor deck and also enjoyed a cool dip in the infinity pool at the hotel.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Milano
From Barcelona we flew into Milan, Italy and spent the day here. Italy, the home of gelato, vino, gelato, pizza, gelato, tiramisu, pasta and gelato. OK, yes there appears to be a liking for gelato.
Sitges
Day 3 was another beach day. This time we took a train a half hour south to a resort town called Sitges. This town had lots of charm, a beautiful old church and kilometres of coastline with the finest sand beaches. The beach that we ended up hanging out at for the entire day was called Platja De La Bassa Rodona. This beach quickly became my second favourite beach of all time; following closely behind Playa Varadero. We decided it would be worth renting lounge beach chairs for $5.50 Euro each. While this may seem a little silly, trust me when I say it was well worth it. It gave us a comfortable place to lie in the sun without getting the lovely fine sand everywhere. The water here I found to be slightly warmer than the other beach we visited. The swimming area here did not drop off as quickly as the other beach which probably factored into why I felt the water was warmer. We spent a fabulous day swimming, wave crashing and sun tanning. I enjoyed this beach time so much that I kept saying that we need to move to Sitges so I can just sit on the beach every day.
Before leaving on our day excursion, we stopped at the market at La Rambla and purchased some fresh fruit and nuts which we snacked on throughout the day. After grabbing a very late lunch, we explored the town a little and found ourselves witnessing two weddings taking place at the church.
Sitges was definitely a great way to finish off our short time in Barcelona. We almost didn’t make it there because prior to leaving on this trip we read about the area and I decided it wasn’t really somewhere overly interesting. Boy was I wrong.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Barcelona
Barcelona where the Sangria flows and the Paella is plentiful.
We arrived in Barcelona late in the evening and made our way to our hotel – Hotel Curious. I liked this hotel for its name whereas Z actually read the reviews and chose it based on those. This hotel is centrally located in an area known as La Rambla and was only about a block from the main street. La Rambla is the place to be; it’s a 1.25 km pedestrian boulevard lined with restaurants, bars, shops , flower stands and thousands of people walking around. There is also an amazing market where you can find everything from fresh fruit and fruit juices to fresh meats, cheeses, stinky sea food, candies and more. This street is alive from morning to the wee hours of the morning with people of all ages. Something that struck me as so different from back home was that you see little children out late at night with their parents and nothing seemed unusual about it here.
After our very long journey, Z figured I needed a little “down” time, so he found a great beach for us to hang out for the day. We took a train 1 hour north to a place called Canet de Mar, somewhat off the beaten track. The train ticket was inexpensive at $6.80 Euro round trip for the both of us. We were told that the beaches north of Barcelona had nicer water than in the city. We arrived in the town and found a lunch spot where we ran into a “local” originally from France who said that not many foreign tourists make it this far and she was surprised to hear English. This beach was worth the trip. While the beach itself was a fine pebble beach instead of sand, the water was absolutely great. The Mediterranean Sea was a little cool, but refreshing and great to swim in. The beach was not crowded whatsoever with only locals around. We spent the afternoon into early evening just chilling at the beach before the
clouds started to take over the sky.
On day 2, we walked around the city exploring different neighbourhoods and sites. Given our short stay, we purposefully decided to skip museum visits and instead take the city in on foot. This day wasn’t the best in terms of weather; it started out raining, but stopped as we started our exploration. As we stopped in at a little cafe and ordered our cafe de leche, the sky opened up and it poured for a good 15 minutes. Seems no matter where we
travel, we can’t seem to avoid the rain.
One thing about Barcelona that we both thought was great, is that every street you turn down there is usually something there waiting to be discovered. We found many neat plazas by just taking a turn off a main street and walking down what looked like an alley. There is no shortage of eateries in Barcelona and the selection of food is quite diverse. Eating outside on the restaurant patios is the thing to do and this allows for some good people
watching opportunities.
The city has a diverse mix of architectural styles ranging from Gothic to Modernisme to Contemporary. One of the biggest influences on the city’s architecture was Antoni Gaudi. One of his most famous projects is the still unfinished La Sagrada Familia, a church that when finally complete can accommodate 40,000 people. This is definitely a site to see, and while we didn’t venture inside due to the massive queue of people, the facade is truly spectacular and should not be missed.
This evening was capped off with a Flamenco show. For $23 Euro each, we were entertained by a live Flamenco show that lasted an hour. The show was spectacular and well worth seeing. We caught the early show, so afterwards with the evening still being so young we hopped on the Metro to go see La Font Magica. These famous fountains put on a spectacular light and music show in the summer (much like the water fountain show at the Bellagio in Las Vegas). The shows run every 15 minutes Thursdays through Sundays from 9:30 to 11:30pm. Again I was surprised to see the number of families out with small children watching the shows after 9:30pm. It was a great way to cap off our day.
The weather was looking much better for day 3 so we decided another beach day was in order.